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The complex, yet beautiful relationship between fashion and photography has changed quite a bit over the years. Paris-based writer and editor Patrick Remy recalls in his newest book, Anti Glossy: Fashion Photography Now about a time when “fashion photography was an important step between design and distribution.” He suggests that the purpose of fashion is to inspire and for the photographer to be able to express his or her creative vision whilst simultaneously displaying a brand’s overall intended message to the consumer. It is striking this balance that sets this type of photography apart, and makes it so difficult to perfect.
This book highlights some of the greatest work from photographers including Juergen Teller, Glen Luchford, Sebastian Kim, Annemarieke van Drimmelen, Charlotte Wales, Sarah Piantadosi, Joanna Piotrowska, Jeff Bark, Ethan James Green, Karen Knorr, and many more. The visual work featured in this mesmerizing collection are the ultimate display of how artistic genius and imagination can be incorporated into an ad campaign for a major fashion label. The desire for the aesthetic to be incorporated into their lives somehow instills an internal connection between the beauty of the photography, the clothing or accessories in play, and the ultimate consumeristic choice of the audience. These are all factors that make the fashion industry so notable, and Remy recognizes that in full. He says that fashion photography is still used as a marketing tool, but one that must be formatted differently and adapted in a way that still manages to tell an engaging story.
One of the photographers featured is Australian-born van Drimmelen. After spending her childhood shooting with her mother’s camera, her relationship with photography progressed when she began modeling. Her exposure to professional photographers led her to the realization that her true passion was to be behind the camera. She’s been a full-time photographer since 2008, working on major campaigns for Chloé, Fendi, Hermès, Dior, Hugo Boss, and more. Her mixed media collaboration with Anouk Griffioen entitled The Sophie Project is featured in the project.
Remy explains that in a world of digital influencers and paid-for Instagram campaigns, original fashion photography is beginning to serve a slightly different purpose. While the book is very much a celebration of the artistic works of these photographers, it is also a subtle critique on the current state of our society and the conditions within that allow for this type of ingenuity to be appreciated. In reference to the see-now-buy-now culture that we live in today, Remy says, “fashion photography still exists but the stories have become segments of a strategy: the tale told in a series compromising a dozen images becomes a succession of small pebbles dropped on Instagram, Pinterest, Facebook or others, and we are not quite certain to find our own way in to the narrative, as in an endless conversation.”
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