Andreas Kronthaler is not afraid to apply shock factor. “Butt cleavage,” larger-than-life boots, and sky-high trains adorned his designs for Vivienne Westwood‘s Spring/Summer 2022 collection. The lineup was a sustainable patchwork of Kronthaler’s artistic universe—messy-chic and undeniably theatrical.
Despite showing at the cavernous Garage Amelot, each look was photographed against a digitized screen presenting an assortment of backdrops. An unmade bed, small town postcard, upside-down building, barrels of hay. Combinations of designs and backgrounds that should not work, but somehow do.
Many pieces had a sense of familiarity — and with reason. Kronthaler curated the collection by tapping into discarded bolts of fabric, some dating back to his partner’s early ’90s creations. References to Westwood’s trademarks were constant, from the signature tartan in orange shades to a more modest version of corsetry from Fall/Winter 1994.
A myriad of Arabic inspirations walked the runway, along with all sorts of unusual headpieces: antennae, stuffed animals, florals? Gender lines were blurred as men wore gowns and skirts, even occasionally showing a bit of “butt cleavage” beside women dressed in patch-worked sports jerseys. And while subtlety was not exactly on the table, every look could individually be admired for hours on end. Genius details undoubtedly catching the eye just before moving onto the next design.
Discover all the looks from Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2022 below.END
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