Every Look from Luar Spring/Summer 2021

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154 Scott Ave was the place to be on Saturday night of New York Fashion Week, as stylists, creatives, journalists, and industry veterans waited with excitement to preview Brooklyn native Raul Lopez’s newest collection after a three-season hiatus. The show notes, placed on every seat, described how this next chapter for LUAR was one that was “anchored by self-preservation and balanced by a desire for a longevity defined by emotional sustainability.” In a time where some are questioning the long-term feasibility of the fashion calendar, Lopez’s pursuit is a noble one, and his collection entitled Teteo Basico” is decidedly a success.

The show began with belted leather and weighty fabrics that smoothly transitioned into Lopez’s signature athleisure. The latter looks felt softer, leaning into the streetwear-inspired formula of sweats and assorted accessories (ear bling, belts, and mini bags abounded). It’s a high-low formula we all seem to have adapted over the past year, which was coincidentally the time period that Lopez spent incubating as an artist as the chronological shift in styling throughout the show from intensity to fluidity, from hard shell to priceless and delicate interior, is meant to be autobiographical.

Skinny leather belts were a common motif throughout the collection, seen more frequently darting across chests rather than circling waists, as if to say, “buckle in — here we go.” And go we did, as the Spring/Summer 2022 collection was nothing short of electrifying. Deconstructed suiting slashed with cutouts was styled with short, wide ties and bags with strong structure imitated and superseded the office-ready briefcase. Lopez utilized subtle embroidery and dabbled in prints but stayed true to a more dusky, toned-down color palette. The embroidery was used to monogram a handful of pieces as a nod to logomania, one of the many ways that the designer intentionally supplanted the idea of “basic.”

Each Luar look that was sent out on the runway was met with insane energy that could only be accomplished in an industrial warehouse in the heart of Brooklyn. The concrete walls seemed to amplify the noise as models stomped in exaggerated architectural shoes to floor-shaking music, many wearing back-brushing, swishing hair extensions tied up in three ponytails — perhaps a nod to Fibonacci satisfaction or maybe just a style intended to be purposefully, slightly off-kilter. From the absurd beauty to the androgynous styling, Teteo Basico is an emotional journey of creation — in the words of the brand offered in the show’s notes, “The pearl only becomes visible after the shell has been cracked.”

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