Brandon Maxwell is taking a little (acid?) trip into more playful territory, but not without ample amounts of his typical ammunition — clean tailoring, vivid hues, and easy-to-throw on dresses (although formal dresses were notably absent).
It’s slightly less polished than his Spring/Summer 2021 collection, which was an amalgamation of crisp menswear-inspired pieces and a primarily neutral palette, but not off-brand for the Maxwell girl with a closet stocked full of classic garments and the occasional sparkle. It’s not a reroute for the brand by any means. We’ll call it an exploration of fashion as joy — pure optimism encapsulated in a collection of pieces that are meant to be worn with pride.
Remember tying sweaters around your waist back in the 2010’s? Maxwell has declared it: that styling hack is back. Extra points if you can color match your knits to your ginghams. Printed sweaters (think plaid, cable knit, and leggy mushroom graphics designed by artist Mischka Westell) are draped over perfectly preppy shoulders, and trousers are paired with string bra tops and boyfriend blazers, low-slung on the hips in typical cool-girl fashion. The accessories carried their weight as well, from saddlebags to rolled-up beach towels attached to tourist-chic minis to practical backpacks.
Maxwell sent hallucinogenic prints down this particular runway, joining the ranks of the many designers that have recently been taking inspiration from the Psychedelic Era. Even Precious Lee’s strapless green number topped with a mini Barbie bolero had lightly contrasting swirls of green throughout. A few of the caftan-style dresses were almost bohemian and reminiscent of a beachier resort collection — not quite Brandon Maxwell’s 2022 Resort collection in particular though, as that particular campaign leaned heavily on butterfly, animal, polka dot, and floral prints to carry the collection. The designer also continued to play with the V-Day-ready pink and red combination (as did Jacquemus for their Fall/Winter 2021 collection).
Brandon Maxwell’s usage of clear paillettes over cottagecore gingham was particularly delightful (note the baby blue sweater draped over the shoulders, looking not unlike the recently-revived skinny scarf) and other gingham pieces were shown in a black and white iteration of the print with digitally rendered, blurred flowers as if captured mid-spin.
Maxwell’s contemporary silhouettes still rein, despite the fact that his typical minimalist aesthetic took a back seat for Spring/Summer 2021. It’s a more youthful attitude — carefree, beach-ready, and deeply refreshing for times such as these. In the words of the designer himself during a backstage interview, “Life has not been a beach for the last year and a half. Don’t we all want to be on a beach at this point?”END
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createdAt:Sat, 11 Sep 2021 18:22:59 +0000
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