What Does The Future of Emilio Pucci Look Like?

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If you’ve recently become a fan of the Italian brand’s swirling prints and bold scarves, you aren’t alone. In fact, you’re joining hoards of Pucci fans that have been swooning over their jet-set styles since Emilio Pucci dedicated his debut 1962 haute couture collection to style icon Jackie Kennedy. The Italian brand has officially named Camille Miceli as their newest artistic director, and she will be the first woman to lead Pucci as well as the brand’s first full-time designer since 2017. Pucci is a brand that celebrates delight, joy, and boldness, so it’s quite fitting Miceli tells Womens Wear Daily that she’s “someone who quite enjoys life.”

Since the departure of full-time designer Massimo Giorgetti in 2017, Pucci has been featuring a rotation of guest designers like Christelle Kocher of Parisian fashion brand KOCHÉ. Sidney Toledano, CEO and chairman of LVMH Fashion Group, previously worked with Miceli at Dior and tells WWD “She’s suited to the project. She loves color, and she is a joyful person. Camille will respect the codes of the brand and the history, but she will come with something new. Fashion is about newness and this is the mission.”

Colorful motifs have been a Pucci staple since Emilio Pucci was designing beachy prints in the 1940’s, and as the brand shifts to focus on resort, we can expect to see an excess of silky, Italian holiday looks. It’s a match made in heaven — Miceli’s personal style has a sort of effortless, everyday ease that most can only find on vacation, described by Marc Jacobs as “a representation of Parisian joie de vivre [in] these giant heels and this tiny skirt [with] a huge smile and no makeup. And she just seemed like a storybook character.”

We’re hoping that lots of groovy patterns and 70’s vacation vibes are on the menu for Pucci’s upcoming resort collections. There’s no shortage of inspiration to be found, especially considering the current state of fashion trends playing so nicely with the Pucci aesthetic. In fact, for some, Raf Simons’ first womenswear collection for Spring/Summer 2021 immediately called to mind Emilio Pucci as the designer played with blocky, mind-bending prints on ponchos and skin-tight sleeves.

Pucci has seen a recent resurgence in popularity specifically among Depop sellers, Gen Z thrifters, and the TikTok fashion crowd, namely for those iconic, psychedelic prints. This budding revival has led to Pucci-esque designs showing up by the cropful on influencer-favorite shopping websites and smaller businesses that are finding inspiration in the Italian house’s current and archival designs. Even the Zara Spring 2021 collection that went viral on TikTok for its bold swirls and silky silhouettes was suspiciously similar in both colorways and style to the Emilio Pucci aesthetic.

TikTok users have taken to the video platform to educate fashion novices on the origins of their newest favorite trends, some noticing the similarities between current in-store Zara styles and Emilio Pucci styles, and others simply talking about their love for the designs. Pucci is a heritage brand, through and through — fashion aficionados have shown off their vintage Pucci finds on TikTok, and even Miceli herself talked about remembering her grandmother wearing Pucci. “The prints are so strong; it’s something you don’t forget” she says in an exclusive interview, talking about how she went out and purchased vintage Pucci in her younger years. Miceli hopes to continue the through-line of Pucci as a multigenerational brand.

Emilio Pucci’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection was inspired by the first thing that the original designer ever created — a ski suit. However, as Pucci pivots towards a resort focus and rides the wave of this Gen Z resurgence, fans are speculating online about what these changes mean for the future of the Italian brand.

Will they capitalize on this digital chatter? Stay the course, or shift their design aesthetic? Will Miceli reach back into archival looks to maximize the value of Pucci’s vintage pieces, or create a new look for the brand’s next collection? There’s a huge amount of potential (and potential pressure!) that comes with this new design role, but no matter what happens, let’s be honest — it’s hard to go wrong with Pucci.

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