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The Fall 2019 season has been officially heralded as Proenza Schouler’s homecoming. When designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez decided to decamp from New York Fashion Week for Paris, there was a pretty noticeable void in the NYFW calendar—for two whole seasons. But don’t worry, the boys are back and they’re treating Fall 2019 as a clean slate, a fresh start, and a return to the basics.
This ethos was particularly reflected in the no-makeup makeup look, created entirely with Lancôme products. The pared-back style was all about dewy, natural looking skin that allowed each of the models’ personalities to shine—which, naturally, paired well with the denim-heavy collection. But that effortless finish, created without a drop of foundation, actually took quite a bit of work to pull together.
In fact, Lancôme’s global creative director Lisa Eldridge likened creating the barely-there look on models including Amber Valletta, Karen Elson, Gemma Ward, and Sasha Pivovarova to touching up a masterpiece.
“[This process] actually takes ages to do, because it’s like art restoration, like they do in Florence, Italy,” she says. “This is similar, because you take out certain areas and leave other areas…I was just taking my time to perfect the skin.”
After focusing heavily on skincare, Eldridge had to get creative with the finished product, eventually using a very thick cold cream in the place of less natural looking highlighters.
“Making the highlighters like that, it’s got the authenticity that Jack and Lazaro are creating with their clothes this season, which is really going back to their soul,” she adds.
While Proenza Schouler teamed up with Lancôme on their first-ever cosmetics collection for Fall 2018, only one item from the range was featured in this runway look. Eldridge used the Lip Kajal in Pink Chroma to create the natural and easy pout, noting that she loves the jelly consistency of the lip crayon and gloss duo.
The hair, which channeled that fresh out of the shower feeling, was just as seemingly effortless as the makeup. The tops and sides of the hair were slicked back with a wet looking dose of Oribe Maximista Thickening Spray, while flyaways were tamed with a dollop of Oribe Gel Serum. The rest of the hair was blowdried with diffusers attached to Dyson’s beloved blowdriers, as lead stylist Holly Smith noted that the style wasn’t intended to look too wet.
It was, according to Smith, the simple but lustrous touch that the casual collection needed. “When you don’t think the clothes need much, you want to bring a little element of polish,” Smith explains. “Proenza Schouler comes from such a high level, but this collection features more street clothes, so this style was a good way to ease into that.”
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