How the Top Hat Went From an Act of Crime to a Stylish Accessory

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On this day in 1797, which also happens to be National Hat Day, an English haberdasher named John Hetherington was brought into custody by the Lord Mayor for disturbing the peace and starting a riot. The uproar was caused by Hetherington’s headwear, which was the first of its kind: a tall hat made from beaver and covered in black silk.

It was said that the hat was “a tall structure having a shiny lustre and calculated to frighten timid people.” When Hetherington took to the streets to model his new design, women reportedly fainted, dogs barked, and children shouted. The haberdasher paid a 500 pound bond for his charges, but maintained that he hadn’t broken any laws. According to Hetherington, he was “exercising a right to appear in a headdress of his own design–a right not denied to any Englishman.”

While the first top hat certainly caused a stir, the style didn’t gain widespread popularity until the mid-19th century, when Prince Albert began sporting one. It then became the standard formalwear hat for men, especially among the upper class. Eventually, the headwear fell out of favor when fashion became more relaxed and informal in the 20th century.

Over the years, the top hat has become engrained in pop culture through notable figures and entertaining tropes. From Abraham Lincoln’s stovepipe hat to Fred Astaire’s top and tails in the 1935 film Top Hat, the accessory is remembered as part of both men’s signature looks. Then, of course, there’s Marlene Dietrich who appears in her first Hollywood feature film in a top hat and tuxedo, and who also incorporated the style into her cabaret performances later in her career.

It has also become symbolic of business and capitalism through its association with the Monopoly man and usage in satirical cartoons, but is perhaps best-known as a magician’s prop. First used by Louis Comte, the Parisian magician debuted his hat trick in 1914, pulling a white rabbit from the depths of his top hat. The sleight-of-hand act has become a staple of magicians throughout the centuries, making the accessory a motif of mystery and theatrics.

In modern fashion, designers have also used top hats to add drama to their collections. On the men’s runway, Vivienne Westwood, Junya Watanabe, and Thom Browne have all put their spin on the style, using unorthodox materials like straw or velvet. For women’s, Ralph Lauren, Maison Margiela, and Saint Laurent have presented various takes on the top hat over the years. Most recently, Marc Jacobs showed two in his Spring/Summer 2020 collection: a classic black silk version accented with a red flower and a white, layer cake-like top hat with a neutral sash.

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