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On the door of a Tokyo bathhouse, there’s a sign that reads: “Here you can lay in the tub. Please do not think about work and relax as much as possible.” While Korea has gained international attention in the beauty sphere, the Japanese know that good skin starts when stress stops. Of course, it also helps that their capital Tokyo is brimming with both sentōs (bath houses) and onsens (bath houses with volcanically heated water). Those with a few hundred Yen (entry fees generally cost less than their Western spas) and without a fear public nudity can soak in the mineral-rich waters, which many claim can cleanse both the body and mind. Here are the city’s most beautiful locations to stage your transformation.
IF YOU WANT A VIEW: SOMEI ONSEN SAKURA
Named after the cherry trees that line the property, Somei Onsen Sakura’s interior is meant to mimic a ryokan, a high-end, open-plan inn. But since the pink blossoms are such a draw, 11 large stone baths are situated near windows and there are also outdoor tubs to invite nature in. They also offer bedrock baths, which involve heated black silica stones sourced exclusively from Hokkaido. It’s believed that by lying on these stones for extended periods of time, it will encourage clear skin, low blood pressure, and weight loss.
IF YOU WANT A HEAVENLY SOAK: FUKU NO YU
It’s a tradition for many Tokyo sentōs (which use heated, not natural hot spring water) to include hand-painted images of the countryside. In line with its design, which is described as “Heaven Sent Bathhouse,” Fuku no Yu has two primary paintings that are changed out weekly due to the steamy environment. One is by 82-year old artist Kiyoto Maruyama, whose crystalline interpretations of Mount Fuji has come to typify bathhouse aesthetics. The other is a more modern, fiery take by Morio Nakajima.
IF YOU WANT TO SOCALIZE: OEDO ONSEN MONOGATARI
Oedo Onsen Monogatari refers to itself as a “theme park,” thanks to a deep menu of spa treatments (which includes “fish therapy” pedicures), food stalls, and shops selling traditional Japanese goods. And when you’re not doing a soak, it’s mandatory to slip on one of its kimonos—the pastel-colored robes are actually the onsen’s uniform, required for walking through the foot bath (a watery path designed to exfoliate the feet) or lounging in the open-air courtyard.
IF YOU WANT COLOR THERAPY: MAENOHARA ONSEN SAYA-NO-YODOKORO
In Japanese, the word “saya” means “pure, fresh, vivid color.” It’s an idea that plays out in the onsen’s garden, which transitions from cherry blossom pink during the spring, to green in the summer, to a fiery orange in the autumn. Saya-no-Yodokoro honors its ever-changing color palette with several outdoor bathing options, along with large interior tubs that are situated next to an expanse of windows.
IF YOU WANT A CITY SANCTUARY: CHINZAN-SŌ
Tokyo’s Chinzan-sō gardens (“House of Camellia” in English) date back to the 1600s. Fittingly, both a haiku poet and statesman have called the lush grounds home. Today, the impeccably manicured walking path hosts artifacts from all over Japan (including a thousand-year-old pagoda) and a five-star hotel of the same name. Book a night to appreciate its modern spa facilities, including the curvy basement pool and hot-spring bathing rooms, where you can participate in the timeless act of quiet contemplation in zen-inducing rock-lined pool.
IF YOU WANT TO GET SPIRITED AWAY: SEKIZENKAN
Located in the Gunma prefecture, Sekizenkan is a day trip from Tokyo. But it’s worth it to view—or stay overnight—what many consider to be the area’s oldest hot spring inn. (It’s been in operation since 1691 and its owners claim a soak is “the cure for 40,000 illnesses.”) Designed in 1930, the large, sunken pools and arched windows of the onsen are inspired by Roman bathhouses. However, the exterior buildings are pure Japanese—the red bridge and imposing layered walls served as one of the many inspirations for Hayao Miyazaki’s 2001 anime masterpiece, Spirited Away.
IF YOU WANT AN OVERNIGHT TRIP: ONSEN KUSATSU
Another reason to get out of Tokyo for the night is Kusatsu, an onsen spring resort located two hours outside the city. In all, there are a dozen smaller bathhouses and three large public baths. The water from the mountain is so hot that to cool it, kimono-clad workers are seen stirring the pools three times a day rather than risk diluting the natural minerals by adding cold water, making it one the area’s most arresting visuals.
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