Every Look from Fendi Fall/Winter 2021 Ready-To-Wear

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Kim Jones goes back to basics for his Fendi Fall/Winter 2021 collection, the third collection for the house from the newly appointed artistic director. Today marked his first ready-to-wear collection and it delivered just that. Obvious references from Jones’ 2021 Couture collection were present– priceless antiques were displayed in glass box mazes and the similar fabric techniques like marbled silk and organza embroideries on jacquard knits resurfaced. The stark difference however can be credited to Jones’ philosophy when designing.

As the artistic director states himself, “it’s real clothes.” The collection, entirely made up of neutrals, wasn’t created to make a statement but instead was designed in honor of the powerful women in Jones’ everyday life. The Italian elegance synonymous with the Fendi image is certainly reimagined but not forgotten. The five Fendi sisters were the first and foremost foundational muses for the collection. “The Fendi family are women of intellect who work hard–and that’s what I wanted to celebrate,” Jones states. “A powerful dynasty.” Pinstripes from their office attire were reimagined for silken shirting or as perfectly proportioned wool tailoring. An iteration of Silvia Venturini Fendi’s signature attire inspired an elevated, shearling utilitarian jacket with a bonded mink interior. The entire collection is remarkable not because the pieces themselves are extraordinary, although the atelier certainly achieved wondrous craftsmanship, but because they were made not for the runway but for the women living outside of the catwalk. Every piece was made with a usefulness in mind and crafted for a chic and timeless lifestyle.

In an interview with WWD, Jones points out the goal for him was to make “clothes that women will want to buy… I want all my friends to go ‘I want that straight away.” Instead of enticing potential wearers with bright colors or complex shapes, typical for a runway, Jones’ focuses on luxurious self indulgence as the main selling point. Techniques performed by the atelier truly emphasize this personable and attention heavy approach – a mink herringbone jacket made featherlight through its suspended construction, embossed Selleria stitching applied to gabardine trenches, leather suiting inlayed with ajour embroidery, or Karligraphy monograms laser cut into suede all showcase this meticulousness.

Although a relatively simple collection, Jones managed to mesh both his vision and the long standing heritage of Fendi into every piece of material. Construction elements like hardware, stitching, and details taken from three sets of Fendi bags from the ’90s were translated onto the Ready-to-wear attire. The accessories themselves also all manage to introduce new silhouettes balanced with tradition. The Fendi First shoe taken from an archival sketch reworks an architectural heel for the modern age while classics like the peekaboo and sunshine shopper bags are reimagined into new proportions and decorated with Selleria details.

While modernity proves to be the overall basis for this collection it is amazing the number of artisanal and historical elements that can be found intertwined within. The Fendi hand in hand project this season, could be responsible for this nod to tradition. The project which enlisted craftspeople from each of Italy’s twenty regions were tasked with reimagining the iconic Baguette. One Baguette in particular used wood inlays found in 6th century Benedictine monasteries as the basis of inspiration. Creative Director of jewelry, Delfina Delettrez, also presented both modern pieces like a padlock (that can only be opened when dialing Fendi, of course) as well as traditional homages like a wax seal pendant stamped with the Fendi logo.

While Jones is certainly not tossing out the values of the Fendi brand he is not afraid to deliver a palate cleanser, one that focuses on easy pieces and silhouette at the center. For now the Fendi image is reminiscent of Jones’ peers, he states “I’m taking the amazing, strong women who I both know and work with, and listening to their needs.” While subdued in both hues and design, the collection manages to deliver meticulous exceptionalism of texture and fabric manipulation as the stand-in for excitement. And above all else, we love a man who listens.

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