The French Manicure Is Back

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The first thing that comes to mind when you think of a French manicure? For me, it’s suburban soccer moms clacking together their long acrylic nails nervously on the sidelines, the thick Wite-Out tips contrasted by an eraser pink base. French manicures became the gold standard during the nineties and early aughts, and have since slipped into tacky territory. Nothing close to what we’d associate with French sophistication. And so I was shocked to discover Carine Roitfeld, the high priestess of Parisian chicness, reviving the look with a more natural take on the classic French manicure—impeccably groomed nails (she’s been wearing the same neutral shade for decades) edged with the faintest hint of sheer white at the tips. I immediately wanted to copy her look.

We’ve reached peak nail art over the past few years, with trailblazers like resident CR manicurist Mei Kawajiri taking the craft to new heights. Kawajiri is responsible for many of the imaginative designs you see in the magazine (think: Paris Jackson’s red hot talons) and on runways including Balenciaga. Last year, she introduced a bold new acrylic style pierced with hoop earrings, which Kim Kardashian recently adopted to viral success. But while Kawajiri likes experimenting with out-of-this-world nail art, she’s also behind Carine’s simple and elegant French manicure. “The nail has to be short and you have to change something in the equation to make it modern,” she says. “Instead of using regular white paint I use a clear white to make everything subtle and blended.”

When it comes to nails, it seems that most women tend toward extremes now: either full-on intricate designs, or barely there and buff. Many of the fashion editors I know have embraced the latter look, often forgoing polish entirely. I’ll never forget reading an Into the Gloss interview in 2011 with Moda Operandi founder Lauren Santo Domingo. “I just go au naturale,” said LSD. “I always feel really dorky with a manicure, to be honest. It feels so contrived.” Carine’s French manicure 2.0 perfectly toes that line between natural and “contrived.” She—like most French women—is very attentive to her hands, keeping them well-moisturized and cuticle-free regardless of what polish she’s wearing.

It’s no surprise that French manicures are enjoying a comeback on the runways, too, with many designers requesting creative twists on the classic formula—like graphic stenciling or new color combinations. This season, for example, Prabal Gurung’s models wore a clear base with dove gray tips. Others are sticking to the traditional look, which was originally invented by Orly founder Jeff Pink in 1975 as a solution for actresses in need of one manicure that would complement multiple outfit changes. Jason Wu and Donatella Versace have each featured textbook French manicures at their respective shows over the past year, making sure the nail is a balanced oval shape, the baby pink base is delicate and sheer, and the white tip has an ombre effect. “The French manicure used to be so popular, and now it’s cool to do a throwback style on purpose,” says Kawajiri.

As for the widespread belief that French women don’t wear French manicures? Thanks to influencers like Carine, that’s totally a fallacy of the past.

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