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Richard Quinn, Charles de Vilmorin, and More Reimagine the Iconic Airline Uniform
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THEOPHILIO
EST 2016, Brooklyn
“I feel there should be a lot more thought in the design of airline uniforms today. Many uniforms do not represent their country of origin as they should. Representation causes visibility. I feel cultural references should be considered in airline uniforms.”
The look: “I wanted to share my country’s culture and its imprint on the airline industry, from AirJamaica to Caribbean Airlines. This was a nostalgic look for me, inspired by my juvenile days in Jamaica and my many airport visits. The khaki brown really resonates with Jamaica’s uniform community, from schooling to law enforcement to the country’s flight attendants.”
ANDREA GROSSI
EST 2020, Florence
“I believe that, like all transport, flying must go through a process of technological development that we reinvent in a sustainable way.”
The look: “It represents a leap into the future, in which human beings choose who they want to be and what they want to become, and go on a journey in search of the best version of themselves.”
RICHARD QUINN
EST 2016, London
“The world has changed so much, it’s interesting to reimagine every code we have at the moment, including travel!”
The look: “I wanted to make a striking, impactful look with a dark, beautiful aesthetic: full latex to accompany the look with a matching crystal-trimmed hat. It’s a signature puff-sleeved silhouette with a light, airy point that reminds me of looking out the airplane window.”
LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERNIN
EST 2017, Paris
“After everything that we have all been through, I think escapism is so precious and traveling is essential. I love traveling, and I didn’t realize how much I loved it until it was taken away from us.”
The look: “Our suits are quite relaxed and don’t have too much construction, and they feel good. I think airline uniforms should move to knitwear. A full knit look that can be as elegant as it is comfortable. And of course, the LdSS airline outfit wouldn’t be complete without its signature tank top with a Swarovski crystal logo and matching Swarovski crystal scarf!”
HED MAYNER
EST 2015, Tel Aviv
“Growing up, I was inspired by uniforms, military clothing, and workwear, so in a way, it was always in my subconscious. If you truly examine the history of airline uniforms, nothing has drastically changed, and all of them more or less look alike. I would like to see them adopting new silhouettes and shapes.”
The look: “I wanted to find a different identity for the people who would wear the uniform and differentiate them from the travelers onboard. I aim to blur identity and gender through the clothes, and create a sort of a shell that provides comfort and protection for the body.”
SEVALI
EST 2019, Paris
“I have always been attracted to uniforms and garments that people can relate to easily. I have been traveling since I was a kid, and consequently, air travel and airports are one of my earliest sources of fashion inspiration.”
The look: “We wanted to remain faithful to our sustainable values. Through our collections we have developed a deconstructed aesthetic and our look is fully upcycled. We created a dress made out of vintage flight attendant suits from the ’90s and we sourced two airplane seat belt buckles that became a harness. The interaction between the dress and the harness is a reflection on the ‘fasten your seatbelt’ moment on the plane, which for me is still the most exciting part.”
CHARLES DE VILMORIN
EST 2020, Paris
“I think that this period has made it possible to reconsider the way we work, and people will perhaps travel less regularly and less automatically. We will hopefully regain a certain taste and charm of air travel.”
The look: “This project inspired me with a pretty narrative look. On the jacket we printed a psychedelic butterfly, symbol of freedom and lightness. On the skirt, we printed clouds and birds. Flowers start from the shoes and wrap around the leg as if they came out of the earth, so you don’t forget to keep your feet on the ground.”
MASHA POPOVA
EST 2020, London
“Sadly, modern airline uniforms are quite undistinguishable. It wasn’t always like that… the late ’60s and ’70s were the best era for the uniforms, especially those by Emilio Pucci for Braniff and by Pierre Cardin [for Olympic Airways]. Flying was a glamorous experience and everything from the uniform to the interior design was taken into account. We need to make flying special again.”
The look: “I didn’t want to make anything overly functional or too rigid; I wanted to create something playful, exciting, and free. Butterflies first came to mind as I reminisced about the freedom of flying and was envious of their freedom in these tough times.”
MAISIE WILEN
EST 2019, Los Angeles
“I actually always joke that I want to be a flight attendant for the uniforms! I love the very traditional retro-ish ones. I assume they’ll get more casual over time, which I guess is good for the employees but a little sad aesthetically.”
The look: “I was inspired by The Fifth Element and 2001: A Space Odyssey. I went to my archive racks and started making pairings. The latex blazers instantly jumped out at me.”
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PHOTOGRAPHER: BRIGITTE NIEDERMAIR
CREATIVE DIRECTOR: CARINE ROITFELD
CREATIVE CONSULTANT: EDOUARD RISSELET
SITTINGS EDITOR: MARIE CHEIAKH
HAIR: YOANN FERNANDEZ
MU: TOM PECHEUX
NAILS: BEATRICE ENI
SET DESIGNER: LILLY MARTHE EBENER
EXECUTIVE PRODUCER: SASHA BAR TUR
PRODUCER: TOBIAS BRAHMST @SHAPEPRODUCTION
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createdAt:Tue, 27 Apr 2021 13:38:06 +0000
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section:Fashion