When Fashion Speaks: Slogan T-Shirts Give Way to Political Face Masks

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As Black Lives Matter activists continue to fill the streets around the country and worldwide, a new accessory has become a key sign of solidarity with the movement. Face masks emblazoned with George Floyd’s immortalized last words, “I can’t breathe,” and “Black Lives Matter” echo the chants that protestors yell from behind the coverings and mirror the messages on the posters and cardboard signs that they carry. The accessory has become a necessity in public spaces amidst the coronavirus, a sign of changing times, and now they are becoming an agent for social change.

The appropriation of face masks for making a political statement isn’t the first time a piece of fashion has been translated into a sign of rebellion. Protest fashion has a centuries long history marked by various garments and symbols, but among these, none have become quite as ubiquitous as the slogan T-shirt. They first gained popularity in the 1970s, thanks to Vivienne Westwood, and then had a moment in the political spotlight when designer Katharine Hamnett made an anti-nuclear statement by wearing a slogan tee to meet then-Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher in 1984. Since then, just about any message has been slapped on the front of a slogan T-shirt. They have even been employed in recent years by high fashion designers like Maria Grazia Chiuri and Prabal Gurung, bringing politics to the runway.

What makes slogan tees so effective is that they are accessible, to the point, and easily reproduced or DIY-able. Face masks have this same functionality. Both pieces are also unisex and reach across any race or social class. Their neutrality–until a pointed slogan is applied–is what makes them practical vehicles for a statement.

Some may question the impact that slogan-baring T-shirts or face masks can make, but it’s important to consider the circumstances in which they are currently being worn. They act as a sign of solidarity during BLM protests and can ignite further conversation around the movement through the images being shared. Whether the words are spoken aloud or not, the face mask will say it for you. Looking at a picture of a man wearing a “Justice for George Floyd” mask and it’s immediately apparent where he stands. It brings awareness to the issue, and the power of that dissemination can then be directed towards inciting real policy changes.

Face masks carry special significance in this moment because their presence is warranted by a pandemic that affects the African-American community at a higher rate than any other group in the U.S. The masks not only show a public responsibility to protect each other from the virus, but can also convey allyship in the fight against racism. Furthermore, using face masks as a canvas for protest strengthens the political message because it’s being printed on an accessory that is crucial to our wellbeing, amplifying the need for change.

“Slogans work on so many different levels; they’re almost subliminal,” Hamnett once said. “They’re also a way of people aligning themselves to a cause. They’re tribal. Wearing one is like branding yourself.”

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