Panconesi Looks to the Stars for Net-A-Porter Capsule Collection

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Growing up in Florence, Italy, Marco Panconesi surrounded himself with the classics and the world above him. Studying Greek and Latin mythology, the young boy dreamt of perhaps one day becoming an archaeologist. “I’ve always had a strong affinity for stargazing, whether through a telescope or in my travels,” he tells CR. “In another life, I would have even loved to have studied astronomy.”

This was, of course, years before Panconesi would start his craft as a jewelry-maker; first at Givenchy for Riccardo Tisci, and then later at Balenciaga alongside both Alexander Wang and Demna Gvasalia as well as privately designing for the likes of Peter Pilotto and Rihanna’s FENTY. The debut of his eponymous accessories line last season saw incredible acclaim, and established the designer’s careful balance between delicate style and playful and transformative beauty.

Now, for his second collection, Paris-based Panconesi reveals a special capsule set inspired by the stars. Launching exclusively on Net-A-Porter this week, the 12-pieces are composed of Sterling Silver 925 dipped in 18 karat gold, and are meant to act as miniature kinetic sculptures responding to the body. Separate from the traditions of fine jewelry, the designs utilize “high jewelry” techniques and new age ideas from other mediums. As the designer admits himself, he is never without his sense of fun. Much like his previous work, there too is an unmistakably architectural approach to the collection, which feature crystals set by hand. And yet, in spite of that, the theme is of the natural world. It’s this place between “chaos” and “balance” that the designer specifically finds particularly fascinating.

Key styles range from a reinterpretation of the designer’s fan-favorite upside-down, convertible hoop (now dotted in crystals) that creates the illusion of three piercings in one to brand-new body chains and glitzy ear cuffs that convey an alien yet romantic quality.

“The term ‘constellation’ embraces many different ideas, but my main inspiration came from looking at the stars and the emotional feeling one gets—the feeling of being awestruck and humbled simultaneously,” says Panconesi. “I wanted to translate this emotion into a collection that is quite spectacular via its materials and techniques but one that could feel personal to each wearer.”

Panconesi’s Net-A-Porter Constellation collection is available online now.

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