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Few things are as quintessentially French as wine. People have been growing grapes, pressing them out, and fermenting juice there since before France was even France. There’s even evidence that the Romans brought viticulture to the region in the 6th century BC. Today, France produces about 8 billion bottles of wine annually, and the country’s array of regions and varieties are standard-bearers in classical winemaking. But with so many options to sort your way through, picking out a single bottle to bring home can be daunting. Here, a few of the essential things to know the next time you’re on the market for some vin.
L’Appellation
One thing about French wines that can be confusing is that grape varieties are almost never noted on the label. Browse through any New World wine section, and you’re sure to see Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and so forth clearly marked. But with French offerings, the “appellation”—basically, where it’s from in France—is what you’ll see. As a general rule, Rhône reds are mostly Syrah grapes, Bourgogne is made from Pinot Noir, and Chablis is Chardonnay. There are about 300 or so recognized appellations from France, and within those the winemakers can have some flexibility to blend grape varieties. So when you’re browsing through French wine, the best approach is not to look for specific varieties the way you would for those from other countries, but rather drink your way through each region at a time.
Le Cru
The next thing to consider is the “cru,” or “growth,” referring to the grapevines themselves. Vines are generally classified into a hierarchy based on the age and quality of the vines, and the French government requires that wine bottles clearly indicate which level of “cru” they contain. In descending order of quality, the classifications are grand cru, premier cru, villages, and regional. Grand cru by law accounts for about 1 percent of a region’s production, premier cru for about 5 percent. Villages-level cru is held to the same quality standards as grand and premier, but does not have the same output restrictions. So, if you are trying out a new variety of French wine, consider starting with villages—the quality can be exceptional, but the lower price can make trying your luck a worthwhile risk.
Le Terroir
One of those fabulous French words that needs no translation, terroir refers not just to the place a wine comes from, but more specifically the character of that place. It’s the soil, the amount of rain, whether it gets a damp breeze or a dry one, whether it’s a sunny vineyard, what the microclimate is, whether it’s on top of a hill or behind one. The permutations are endless. Just know that when you’re reading a label or tasting notes, terroir will generally mean the individuality expressed in a particular wine. Grand cru wines, for instance, are subject to lots of restrictions about growth and output—so their expression of a variety’s terroir might not be as strong as a villages-level wine.
Le Prix
When it comes to French wine—especially when buying it in France—Americans have a misconception that this is the promised land where fabulous wines cost only 4 euro. Not true. While potable swill can be purchased on the cheap, it’s best to spend just a bit more and start off in the 10 or 12 euro range. That way you’re buying a bottle where the winemaker’s concern was the wine itself, and not just putting out the cheapest product possible.
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