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A House Party Homage to Jean Paul Gaultier
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As communities around the globe have remained indoors under Coronavirus quarantine, something wonderful has happened online: an interconnectivity of creativity. Suddenly, artists and talent are interacting and engaging with themselves without the limits of physical projects or social excuses on a scale not yet seen before. The desire—and need—to create and time to do so has made many more inspired than ever. Comprised of artists from the fashion and beauty space, one such group of makeup artists—Grace Ahn, Ivan Castro, Valerie Harvey, Justin Lentz, Rachael Vang, Phoebe Ogan—have been using the social media video chat app House Party for the last few months to band together. Each week the group House Parties for hours, using their own faces as canvases to document experiments and transformation and the production behind each. Today, in honor of the birthday of Jean Paul Gaultier—a couturiere so groundbreaking not only through fashion design but in the audacious worlds he painted—CR asks each to show their rendition of a significant moment from the designer’s past.
Grace Ahn: The Fifth Element and Spring/Summer 2017 Haute Couture
Leeloo from The Fifth Element
Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2017 Haute Couture
“Jean Paul Gaultier has been the epitome of irreverence. Growing up, his shows and images were always a source of fantasy and inspiration. I choose two iconic looks to recreate: Milla Jovovich’s character Leeloo in the movie The Fifth Element and the makeup from his Spring/Summer 2007 Couture show. The movie is one of my favorite sci-fi movies ever made. His costumes really took the story and characters to another level and went perfectly with the style of Luc Besson’s direction. My friend hairstylist David Colvin helped complete my look by cutting and styling a wig to recreate the iconic grungy, orange hair that Ward originally made for the movie. One of the most memorable scenes in The Fifth Element for me is when Leeloo takes a futuristic Chanel makeup device to put makeup on in a ‘flash.’ That inspired me to create a second look, as if I were ‘flash’ transforming on a TikTok video. The Gaultier’s Spring/Summer 2007 Haute Couture show’s makeup was keyed by the amazing Stéphane Marais, who made the models look like colorful, crying Madonna statues come to life. Growing up in a religious family, I was fascinated by Gaultier’s ability to take religious iconography and create beautiful and provocative collections.” – Ahn
Ivan Castro: Fall/Winter 2003 Haute Couture
Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2003 Haute Couture
“As a child growing up in the ’90s, a glutinous diet of fashion magazines kept me sated, and watching MTV’s House of Style was more of a religious ritual than it was must-see TV. It was exciting to see and hear what legendary fashion designers might sound like or say. Most of them seemed mysterious and aloof and perfectly out of reach to me then, but when I saw and heard Jean Paul Gaultier speak, I was moved by his visceral sense of joy, an energy I had never seen before. Gaultier—unlike so many other designers of the day—seemed to effervesce a palpable delight in helping others to dream. When we selected Monsieur Gaultier to serve as our inspiration for this session, I knew immediately the look I wanted to draw attention to—through his Fall/Winter 2003 Couture show (with makeup by Stéphane Marais), Gaultier burned an indelible image into my mind that still haunts me to this day. The look struck me as improbable, as the components were both austere and flamboyant at the same time. With the makeup being feverishly wild and the silhouette being sinewy and controlled, the sum of the look was perfectly married in an impossible contrast. I never forgot it.” – Castro
Valerie Harvey: Spring/Summer 1994 Ready-To-Wear
Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 1994 Ready-to-Wear
“Jean Paul Gaultier is a fashion renegade. He has always brought together fashion, music, and makeup imaginatively and harmoniously, and he has been a huge influence on me for decades. It was really difficult to select just one look from his expansive archives, so with a little help from my fellow artists in our group, I chose his 1994 Spring/Summer Ready-to-Wear show. Gautier’s convergence of culture in this collection is just breathtaking. The image of Naomi Campbell—a goddess and another huge influence in my life as a black artist—is spellbinding. In my recreation, I pay homage to Jean Paul Gaultier, Naomi Cambell, and the artists that brought the original look to life, Stéphane Marais and Orlando Pita.” – Harvey
Justin Lentz: Spring/Summer 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2011 Ready-to-Wear
“Jean Paul Gaultier always managed to make fashion inviting. He has a long history of casting models of all ethnicities and ages alongside queer, trans, and plus-size muses. Growing up, his shows opened my eyes to a world I wanted to be a part of. As Beth Ditto opened and closed this show, I knew a whole new generation was suddenly invited to join the party. I chose to recreate this look as an homage to the spirit of inclusivity and representation.” – Lentz
Rachael Vang: Madonna at 1992 amfAR Benefit Show
Madonna at Jean Paul Gaultier benefit fashion show for amfAR in 1992
“The privilege of being able to recreate a look for the legendary Jean Paul Gaultier on his birthday is a dream. I was thrilled to to chose Madonna from his 1992 benefit show at the Shrine auditorium in LA for amfAR. They helped raise 0,000 for the AIDS research, and showcased different ways to challenge the norm for gender rolls, gay rights, and the limits of beauty. As a little girl, I grew up listening to Madonna. I’m from a second generation Hmong community with many rules defining what it is to be a woman. It was liberating to see the combination of Jean Paul Gaultier’s outlook on empowering the female aesthetic and Madonna’s stance on being a force of nature in a male-dominated world.” – Vang
Phoebe Ogan: Spring/Summer 2004 Haute Couture
Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2004 Haute Couture
“I was immediately attracted to this look from Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring/Summer 2004 Couture show for the fact that it was so different and not a ‘makeup’ runway look that we are used to seeing. I have never done anything like it before to anyone else—let alone myself—so I knew it would be a challenge. It was so fun but also difficult. The lines moving across my face created contours and patterns that became so beautiful and strangely therapeutic to achieve and to look at after. I’ve always been a fan of face tattoos and ink drawings so for me this look was on point!” – Ogan
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