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“This girl looks like she could be lit in a night club with neon or strobe lighting,” explains Redken Global colorist Josh Wood backstage at Marc Jacobs’ Fall/Winter 2018, where he chopped and dyed the hair of nine models ahead of the show. Using Redken’s new Blonde Express, which can bleach and lift hair within seconds utilizing a heated iron, Wood and the rest of the hair team created characters for every one of the models who would be received blunt bobs and jewel-toned dye jobs. No two colors were the same and the cut was heavily inspired by ’60s flipped bobs, while the hues themselves were influenced by the post-heavy metal late ’80s and early ’90s era. The hair itself took three days to accomplish and involved four to five processes in order to achieve the streaked, grunge-y final look.
Sponsored by Redken and Marc Jacobs Beauty, the majority of the other models were given enormous black hats with colored scarves, obscuring their hair entirely. Wood worked with Jacobs himself on coordinating the fabric of the collection with the dye that would be used on the hair. The matching hues, along with the texture of the fabrics, informed on what the hair colors would be.
“There was a movement in the ’80s where people expressed themselves through hair color,” Wood says. “I’m not saying it’s not present today but it was more expressive and experimental. All of the other girls are in hats so you don’t see any of the hair and there was a feeling that the viewer would look at the collection as a whole and wonder if the same styles were under the hats.”
Lead hair stylist Guido Palau explained that the jewel-toned hair, including emerald green, vivid magenta, and a shock of electric blue streaked across the models’ layered, angled bobs, was Jacobs’ idea. The designer wanted the hair to stand out from the collection as a fashion statement in itself.
“Marc loved the idea of having a few girls with these extreme cuts and colors,” Palau says. “We’re very lucky the girls agreed to do it and it’s amazing how the color brings new geometric kind of shapes to feel like almost an accessory in themselves. Looking at the ’80s, it was about doing hair that really popped out that wasn’t meant to be natural at all or like you had done it yourself. If you went out during that period, it was about dressing it up with a total look with cut and color.”
With the return of diverse casting, including Winnie Harlow and CR star Kaia Gerber, makeup artist Diane Kendal wanted to create a dramatic look that “celebrated fashion and created a character, from the shoes to the hats,” she says. With the skin prepped with the new Shameless Youth 24-hour foundation, bold, metallic eye shadow from Marc Jacobs’ upcoming Holiday 2018 collection coordinated with the colors of the brims of the hats. Kendal first pressed the shadow onto the lids using fingertips, extended the shadow out to the hairline, and used a slightly damp brush to make sure it was blended perfectly. Black eyeliner from the inner water line to the lash line, along with plenty of mascara and a Marc Jacobs lipstick in Scandal across the cheeks topped off the completed look.
“Everybody’s got the same makeup, just in different colors,” she says. “We wanted to exaggerate the eye shape and make it go into the hairline. It looked very strong and by extending it out, you get to see more of the color than if it was just on the lid.”
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