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Ever since it was announced that New York Fashion Week would be losing one of its most prominent designers, speculation has turned to what Alexander Wang would have up his sleeve for his Fall/Winter 2018 show. In a nod to the ’80s businesswoman aesthetic, Wang unveiled models with sleek, pulled back hair (fastened by banana hair clips), ruby red tresses, and barely there, natural makeup with touches of contour and highlighter to keep the face looking sculpted, sponsored by Nars Cosmetics and Redken.
Dyeing the models’ hair a vibrant shade of crimson was due to Wang wanting to keep the lineup composed of dark brunettes and and redheads. In order to achieve the designer’s vision, EZ, a breakout model from Wang’s last season, had to go from bleach blonde to red for the show. EZ started out with an orange base, and then hair dye was layered on top in order to fill in the bleach. Other models had their hair slicked back into sleek pony tails and then pinned with silver hair clips or obstructed completely by black swim caps.
“It was just to create this guard of red to get EZ in the lineup,” says Redken colorist Josh Wood. “It was about creating an unusual red and something that doesn’t look necessarily natural but [Wang] wanted a very definite tone. We had a reference of another model I colored quite recently, Teddy Quinlivan. I created that red for Teddy a week ago and it’s creating a trend and we’re copying it on EZ.”
Banana hair clips, used to rake back the models’ hair into updos, tied together the business executive theme of the show. “It’s a cool way to put your hair up. It’s a super dynamic silhouette,” adds lead hair stylist Guido Palau. True-to-form, Wang infused a polished look in his latest collection, sticking to mainly black, street-to-party ensembles that his familiar face models, including CR stars Kaia Gerber and Binx Walton donned for the show. Jewel-encrusted gloves and fanny packs, LBDS, and The Matrix-esque sunglasses and black trench coats made their way into the collection, as well as backpacks that the models wore as they strutted down the catwalk.
The face was kept very natural in order to adhere to the “businesswoman look”, with luminous, dewy skin and a very subtle contour, according to lead makeup artist Diane Kendal. Dark shadow was used on the tops of the eyelids, while models were given a touch of highlighter on the inner corners of the eyes and a bit of blush on the apples of the cheeks. “It’s all about power dressing,” Kendal said. “It’s a nice contour and I wanted to give a little bit of softness to the face. The highlight sculpts the face and I always match eyebrows to the natural hair color of the girls and that’s a good way to make strong eyebrows without making it too heavy.”
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