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How Eva Perón’s Style Influenced Politics
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Traveling late one night in 1973, English author and lyricist Tim Rice heard the end of a radio show discussing Argentinian political leader Eva Perón. Rice was transported back to his childhood hobby of stamp collecting remembering his fascination with a particular stamp printed with Perón’s face, her tight chignon hairstyle braided into a bun and lips parted in a soft smile. Rice was drawn to her, and after much research, came to famed impresario Andrew Lloyd Webber with the idea of a musical based off her life called Evita.
The Tony Award-winning musical debuted in 1978 and brought attention to her story as the voice for those unspoken for in the country of Argentina. It soon followed a string of productions including a major motion picture film in 1996 by the same name starring Madonna and Antonio Banderas. In portraying her style through the progression of her life, costume designer Penny Rose broke the Guiness Book of World Record for “Most Costume Changes in a Film” at around 85 costume changes just for Madonna. Though the record breaking numbers were crucial, Perón’s style throughout the years shows how her life flowed synonymously with the evolution of her style and image. To Perón, what she wore was a method of speaking to her people.
Born in 1919 in the rural village of Los Toldos, Maria Eva Duarte grew up in humble beginnings with dreams of becoming an actress. In 1934, she moved to the city of Buenos Aires to pursue a creative career working in theater, radio, modeling, and even landing a few roles in B-grade melodramas. It was this point in her life that Duarte bleached her naturally black hair to blonde in an embrace of the trends of Hollywood glamour, a look she maintained throughout the rest of her life. She gained financial stability in the new urban environment when she landed a co-host position on the radio show Muy Bien. A teenaged Duarte soon became one of the highest paid radio actresses in the nation earning around five to six thousand pesos a month. The following year in 1943, Duarte began her entrance into politics as one of the founders of the Argentine Radio Association (ARA), a community of fellow radio broadcasters.
Duarte’s life changed dramatically when she began a relationship with Colonel Juan Domingo Perón after a meeting about holding an “artistic festival” to raise funds for the victims of a tragic earthquake that destroyed San Juan city in January of 1944. The two fell fast in love and were soon married, a year later, Perón was elected president throwing his newly wedded wife onto the political scene as the First Lady of Argentina at a mere 27 years of age.
With a strong political influence on her husband, Perón quickly became the most controversial figure in politics. She was the first woman in Argentine history to appear with her husband in a campaign and would break the mold of First Ladies by voicing her views on behalf of unacknowledged topics such as labour rights, poverty, and feminism. It’s important to highlight that women had no political rights at this time in Argentina and often lived a docile, apolitical life secondary to her husband, but Perón refused to conform. For this reason, Perón became the most loved and most hated woman in all of Argentina. High-society figures did not approve of Eva Perón’s impoverished background, lack of formal education, and former career as an actress. On the other hand, the working class found a disconnect between Perón’s championing of their rights and her personal lifestyle marked by expensive clothes and private jets. Nevertheless, Perón was beloved by the populous of the nation due to the compassion she held for her people.
The more Perón was in the public spotlight vocalizing her political beliefs, the more she was criticized by the public, especially in terms of appearance. In 1947, Perón and her husband embarked on a much-publicized “Rainbow Tour” of Europe where they would meet with dignitaries and heads of state. Between gaining the respect of nation’s leaders and living under the lens of the press, the tour was a battle for Perón. While many countries she was well received, other places protestors littered the streets, even restoring to throwing things at the First Lady.
After retuning to Argentina from Europe, Perón never appeared in public again wearing the glamorous styles leftover from her days as an actress. Her brilliant golden hair was darkened and slicked back into a braided chignon and left behind the feathers, elaborate hats, and form-fitting dresses. In an effort to cultivate a more serious image in the eyes of the public, Perón turned to the help of Parisian couture houses in curating a simpler, more stylish wardrobe.
Her appeal transcended politics, and Perón became known for the signature aspects to her everyday look. She was particularly known for her chignon, blue-tone red lipstick, and earrings that she wore routinely everyday. In terms of shoes, it’s said she owned around 200 pairs with heels, moccasins, and platform sandals being her footwear of choice. Due to her controversial image, Argentinian high-end fashion houses that designed for the First Lady were unwilling to publicly say they dressed Perón in fear that other customers would be reluctant to come back to the shop. Perón did most of her shopping in Paris as an avid customer to some of the highest couture houses, she particularly loved the jewels of Cartier and fashions of Jacques Fath and Christian Dior. The two designers allegedly had mannequins in their atelier’s with Perón’s exact measurements to make custom dresses in a flash. “The only queen I ever dressed was Eva Perón” Christian Dior once said in an interview.
Though Perón couldn’t win and the public soon began scrutinizing her hypocrisies. The couple rose to power courting the rights of the working class but now seemingly lived a life of heightened glamour through private jets and lavish couture dresses.
The truth is that not only was fashion something Perón loved, but fashion was also her armor against those who despised her. Perón’s rags-to-riches story was an example that anyone could have the chance to ascend socially. Her fashions were a way to prove that she could hold a political presence, and look chic while doing it. Alternatively, many saw her elegant beauty and signature styles as inspirational. Even when she was in casual settings, Perón saw it as her duty to appear presentable to guests. “I want to look beautiful for my grasitas (Argentinian expression similar to sleazy)” Perón would say in jest.
Perón’s political strides as first lady led her to ponder over a candidacy for vice president. Over two million people marched for her, including immense support from the Female Perónist Party and the General Labour Confederation. Eventually, Perón ended her campaign due to internal political pressures. Following her final public appearance in June of 1952, she was given the title of “Spiritual Leader of the Nation” by congress.
Only a few weeks later on July 26th of that same year, Perón died of cancer at 33-years old. One of her many fashion assistants, Asunta Fernández, transformed an unworn Jacques Fath haute couture white gown into a shroud upon her death.
Perón is remembered for setting incredibly high standards of future First Ladies around the world. Whether you were an admirer or not, Perón defied the views of women at the time refusing to be seen as an accessory to her husband. She used her style throughout her life as a method of communication. From defying those who doubted her to dressing up for her people, Perón created an unspoken dialog with what she wore letting her politics and image coincide and allowing her life to be truly captured by her iconic style.
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