The LVMH Nine: Doublet

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The LVMH Prize is one of the most prestigious fashion design competitions. It propels young designers in front of the eyes of the industry’s most powerful names, offering creative mentorship, financial support, and limelight. As we count down to the final ceremony on June 6, CR spotlights the nine finalists on this year’s roster.

Inspired by Lewis Carroll, Masayuki Ino began Doublet in 2012 after the Tōhoku earthquake and tsunami struck Japan. He had been working at streetwear powerhouse Miharayasuhiro for the bulk of his fashion career designing shoes, and felt compelled to life his life fully—to find his true happiness. In the six years since, the brand has grown from niche, cool-kid-line to an internationally respected offering of ready-to-wear, acclaimed for its cheeky sensibility and graphic style. Just this past season the designer—a native of Japan’s Gunma Prefecture—took up residency at Dover Street Market New York and London with two plastic-covered t-shirt pop-ups. Here, CR spoke to the LVMH Prize finalist and playful designer about drawing outside of the lines and reminding people to smile.

What led you to transition designing from footwear to fashion?
I worked at Miharayasuhiro for seven years, mainly designing shoes, bags, and leather goods. When I started my own brand, I didn’t want it to be seen as an extension of my former. So, instead, I decided to design clothes based on my experiences.

You Won the Tokyo Fashion Award in 2016. How did that change your career?
The active exhibition that we’ve had oversees—especially in Paris during Fashion Week—has all been due to the award. It gained Doublet recognition all around the world.

“Designing for Double for me has always been a way to be more human. This is my individuality.”

What were the most difficult pieces to make in your Fall/Winter 2018 collection?
We tried to use Lenticular printing for the first time. It’s a technique in which lenticular lenses—which are also used in 3-D displays—are used to produce printed images with an illusion of depth, or the ability to change or move as the image is viewed from different angles. That was really hard. We modified it so many times. When I was in elementary school, I had a 3-D dinosaur lenticular ruler. I tried using this modern technology with clothes to bring up old memories.

What do you hope to express or convey as a fashion designer?
I try to keep a sense of humor all the time. Looking at clothes differently—though even in a simple way—is the key to express more fun. Humor and individuality represent the people itself. These are the most important things to create something. Designing for Double for me has always been a way to be more human. This is my individuality.

PHOTOGRAPHS DAMIEN KRISL
FASHION JOANA DACHEVILLE
MAKEUP MAYIA ALLEAUME
HAIR CYRIL LALOYE
MODEL KASSIM TRAORE AT ELITE
CASTING DANTE FRONGILLO
SET DESIGN ELEONORA SUCCI
PRODUCTION HANNAH HUFFMAN
DIGITAL TECHNICIAN YOHAN BUREL
PHOTO ASSISTANT THOMAS CLODINE-FLORENT
FASHION ASSISTANT GLEN MBAN
MAKEUP ASSISTANT ELSA OLSON

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