Off-Shoulder is On-Trend at NYFW

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Centuries after Marie Antoinette turned bourgeoisie heads in her hoop-skirted confections, and decades after the queen bees of Heathers defined ’80s wardrobes everywhere with the single crack of a croquet stick, off-shoulder silhouettes have made a triumphant return to the forefront of fashion. Once synonymous with technicolor leotards and leg warmers, off-shoulder garments are all grown up and catapulting into 2020 with the help of NYFW’s finest. This trend finds power in its versatility—going off-shoulder can mean anything from tugging on a jacket sleeve to chopping off a garment’s limb altogether. Across the runways of New York Fashion Week, from storied houses to scrappy up-and-comers, designers are no longer turning a cold shoulder to this nostalgic look. On gowns and peacoats, from cutouts to D.I.Y., off-shoulder styles show no signs of slowing down.

Dion Lee’s sexy, minimalist runway is a front-runner for emerging trends, from skin tight corsets to whale tales, so the designer’s embrace of off-shoulder versatility comes as no surprise. The trend took multiple forms throughout the androgynous collection—some straight-edge necklines bypassed the shoulders altogether, while some corset bodices blossomed into collarbone-kissing suit lapels. Whether atop sleek trousers or cutout mini skirts, every iteration of the ’80s favorite was given a modern-day upgrade thanks to Lee’s dose of femininity.

Under the punk eye of Monse, “off-shoulder” took the form of ultra-glam gowns and deconstructed staples. Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia’s remixed halter necklines and velvet ruching toughed up the feminine look of one-shoulder evening gowns, while a floor-sweeping patchwork trench was pulled down to reveal an asymmetrical turtleneck. Crystallized fishnets, safety pin earrings, and half-laced combat boots injected every off-shoulder look with the house’s signature attitude.

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were inspired by sharp versatility for the latest Proenza Schouler collection, and this spark manifested in softly tugged lapels and asymmetrical necklines. The disheveled-chic collection relied on intentional undone-ness, from 90-degree shoulder cutouts to perfectly normal peacoats transformed with a single off-the-shoulder pull. While many of the off-shoulder moments had an air of improvisation, the house’s trademark attention to detail kept every look structured and undoubtedly intentional.

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