The History of Women in Suits

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At the new Yves Saint Laurent museum at the Pierre Berge Foundation in Paris, the designer’s famous Le Smoking is the main attraction, literally. It’s the first garment that you see on display upon entering the newly christened museum, which rests in what was Laurent’s maison from 1974 until he stepped down from designing in 2002. Its creation was considered everything from shocking—Le Cote Basque famously turned away socialite Nan Kempner when she arrived wearing it—to ill-fitting and ill-conceived when it debuted in 1966. Looking through today’s lens, while its style endures, it looks rather tame. Saint Laurent may take all the credit for this genderless dressing in men’s formal wear, but he was hardly the first nor the last. In this spirit, CR reflects on women who have favored the penquin suit aka black tie attire.

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