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Make way for Ann Demeulemeester‘s monochrome army in matching chapeaus. Generated by a mysterious “ghost team” following Creative Director Sébastien Meunier’s departure, the collection ushered rock & roll inspired minimalism through the halls of Lycée Carnot, a Parisian high school.
Color was absent from their Spring/Summer 2022 lineup, confirming a reset to the “Antwerp Six” founded label’s ’90s roots. Black and white slouchy suits were gilded by a common thread, or rather ribbon, that hung from each piece quite randomly. Almost like an undone harness, perhaps even a modern take on fringe, long black strips of fabric trailed in the wind behind every passing look. According Ann Demeulemeester, the ribbon represents lines of black ink on a white canvas. More specifically—a signature.
But each design was “signed” in more ways than one. Many of the models sported an elegant version of the face tattoo, Ann’s very own handwriting scribbling various motifs. Namely, aimer c’est agir, a quote by Victor Hugo meaning “to love is to act.” Lightning over heaven, the collection’s theme, and a simple amour popped up several times as well.
As the label has stated themselves, a new era is upon Ann Demeulemeester, “hidden as a secret, it creates magic effects and inspiring style variations.” Anonymous design team structures have thrived at Maison Margiela’s MM6 and the viral Vetements, so perhaps a new air of mystery shall bode well for Ann’s legacy. CR will be paying attention.
Enjoy the looks from Ann Demeulemeester’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection below.
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createdAt:Mon, 04 Oct 2021 14:29:01 +0000
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