Valentino opens its doors, inviting a more inclusive lens to the world of high fashion. Creative director of the brand, Pierpaolo Piccioli, embraces the change in the world that left little intrigue and more distaste for the elusive, private fashion circle. Once shown in the most luxurious palaces of Paris, the Spring/Summer 2022 collection reverts to simplicity, staging at the Carreau du Temple in the old marketplace, where attendees sat at alfresco dining cafe tables.
With the garments, Piccioli keeps the integrity of couture and the brand while envisioning them in a new context of a younger generation. Most brands, in the recent years, dipping their toes in attempts to stay relevant take their shot at street-style. Piccioli opts for creating designs that fell true to the brand, avoiding falling into gimmick, but take into account an urban lifestyle. The casting of the mixed gender show portrayed the vibe with featuring “real people” focusing on diversity. Like with most old fashion houses, though, this diversity only delves into race and not body.
The collection maintained the beauty and details of previous collection without seeming opulent, but grounded. 97 looks showcased a myriad of ensembles androgynous suit jackets with shorts in fresher, updated fabrics like nylon, to cut away structured mini dresses. Rich purples and greens offer bright moments of color until the neon yellows and pinks follow upping the ante. Gender flows throughout, not sicking to the binary still so locked in place in the industry. The styling drives home Piccioli’s aim by blending the feminine with masculine and details of denim and gladiator sandals that relax the collection.
Elements of the identity of Valentino feature throughout. Chiffon dresses drape in flowing fabrics of sheer and light natures. Volume creates billowing structures in sleeves. Piccioli pulls from Valentino collections of the past that influenced him as a child. Garments of white organza and intricate flower embroidery point to the infamous ’68 white collection.
Where some promises to evolve with times leave legacy fashion brands left looking more out of touch than before, Piccioli’s view of a more inclusive Valentino fells genuine — a desire, not a desperate grab at relevancy.
Click through the gallery below to see every look from Valentino Spring/Summer 2022.END
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